In my recent visit to Nepal, Muktinath yatra was one of the best experience. In this post I will share all the related information of Muktinath Yatra and about my experience of the horrible bus journey from Pokhara to Muktinath. Muktinath Darshan is considered one of the holiest place for people who specially completed all four sacred place (Char Dham) in India. Though I am not that religious, but when I planned my Nepal trip, I did not want to miss this experience at any cost.
Best time to visit:
For visiting Nepal as well as Muktinath, the best time is October – November. That time temperature would be ok ( 3-5 degree at night, 12-15 degree at day) and the sky will be clear. From December Onwards the temperature would be too cold.
The second best season is March-April that can be extended up to May first week. In this time of year, the temperature would be warmer, at night 7-8 degree and day time would be 15-18 degree but from May onwards the dust will be very high and because of this the clear view of Dhaulagiri may be disrupted.
How to reach Muktinath:
For reaching Muktinath there are many options:
Kathmandu to Muktinath :
If you want to reach Muktinath from Kathmandu, there are many buses which will take you from Kathmandu to Muktinath via Pokhara. However the journey will be for almost 22-23 hours so it’s better to come Pokhara first, take 1 day rest at Pokhara and then book the bus from Pokhara to Muktinath.
Pokhara to Muktinath:
- As I have mentioned above that from Pokhara there are 1-2 buses. My bus started at 7.30 am from Hallan Chowk, Pokhara. Other than those buses there are shared jeeps. The ticket for bus is 1100NPR (rate for NPR to INR and USD are mentioned below) and for jeep 1800 NPR. (Price of May 2019). Time: 12- 14 hours.
- Alternately if you are planning to do Annapurna circuit trekking you can reach Muktinath by walking after reaching Jomsom.
- By flight from Pokhara: If you don’t have budget restriction, then this is the best option. From Pokhara to Jomsom there are flights available which will take you to Jomsom in 30 minute. Especially for senior people this is the best option as the road condition is very bad.
My experience of Muktinath Bus journey:
Nepal Muktinath yatra was special for me for two reasons – one is the friends I made in the journey. Second one is the journey itself. That 12 hours of bus journey was the most horrible bus journey I have ever witnessed.
The route up to Nayapul (first 1 hour) was ok but then the rest of the route was horribly bad. That’s what I have even read before going but after this trip I could realize that bad is how much bad!!
The bus will cross many places like Beni, Ghasa, Tatopani, Marpha, Kalapani, Jharkot to reach Jomson. Most of time you will see the Kali Gandaki river flowing parallel to the road. If you seat in the right hand side (like me) of the bus you will actually realize how the road is perfectly tailor made for the bus width!! Most of the time, from the window you will only see the deepest gorge in Himalaya i.e. Kali Gandki River .Some of the turn I was actually closed my eyes and sometimes even stopped taking breath!!
I was actually thinking whether I will be able to return home or not. That was the time when I was actually missing my family terribly and after crossing each such turns I was thanking God and offcource the driver. For me, the Muktinath Road trip memories will be more significant that the temple trip memory.
Permission for Muktinath visit:
Muktinath is in Annapurna conservative area so you need to issue a permit from ACAP Office Pokhara. For SAARC countries, the ACAP permit will cost you 1000 NPR and the TIMS card will cost 600 NPR. (if you are going alone, not with any travel agency). If you are going with travel agency then the permit to be arranged by them. However all the fellow passengers of my Bus (all Indian) didn’t know about the pass requirement and luckily there was no checking on the way to Muktinath so they got saved. If someone doesn’t book the permit then on the spot he /she has to get the permit by paying double amount, so choice is yours.
For permission you need to provide the travel insurance/ health insurance details. So make sure you are carrying the details of your health insurance. They will also ask the family members contact no and 3 copies passport size photographs. I think it’s better to issue the Permit as if anything happens to you, the rescue operation would be easier.
Fitness level required for Nepal Muktinath Yatra:
Previously when there was no bus/ jeep communication from Pokhara, people had to walk for Muktinath darshan. Now at least bus/flights are there to reach there, so actually any people who wish to visit, can visit Muktinath. However the bus journey is very hectic, so you have consider this before taking decision.
As I mentioned this was the worst road I have ever seen in the Himalayan range across India (Himachal, Jammu & Kashmir, Uttarakhand, Sikkim), Bhutan.
As the height is approx. 3700 meters, so some people may get mountain sickness, so it’s better to reach Jomson (2700 meters) in first day and second day proceed for Muktinath as gradually height gain is better. Also take some medicine for precaution.
Nepal Muktinath Yatra Itinerary:
The perfect itinerary shall be-
Day 1: Pokhara to Jomsom
start from Pokhara (1400 m) to Jomsom (2700 m) and take rest. For us, the next day was announced as strike in Nepal, so we proceed to Muktinath (3700 m) on the same day. We reached Muktinath at 7.30 pm.
Day 2: Jomsom to Muktinath and back
Take jeep at 7 am (or as early possible) the morning and reach Muktinath in 30 -40 minutes. From the Gate you need to walk for 1 km. It should take 30 minutes to reach the temple. Alternately there are Pony available for people who don’t want to walk. Pony will take 500 NPR/ person. Bargaining/ negotiation is possible.
After reaching there, you can take bath in the 108 mukti dhara and two kunds (small ponds). After bathing you can visit the temple for prayer/puja.
From the temple you can witness the 360 degree view of Dhaulagiri north, Dhaulagiri South, Nilgiri, Tukc he, Gurja peaks.
There is a monastery above the temple. Unlike the temple, this place was not much crowded. The area of monastery was very peaceful. We seated there for sometime and then proceed back to the hotel.
You can stay the day at Muktinath or can come back to Jomsom. As the road condition is too bad so it’s suggested not to start the journey to Pokhara in the second half of the day as you will reach Pokhara at night.
Day 3: Muktinath/Jomsom to Pokhara
You can start early from Jomsom/ Muktinath for Pokhara or Kathmandu.
There is a place called Tatopani where you can take bath in natural hot spring. If you have one additional day time, I would suggest you to spend at least 3-4 hours there and then you can take next bus for Pokhara. The entry fee for the hot spring is 150 NPR which I feel is totally worth.
For me, I had to start my Ghorepani poon hill trek from Tatopani, so I came Tatopani from Muktinath on the day 2 and day 3 morning I starred my trekking.
Read: How to prepare yourself for Solo trip
My Muktinath darshan experience:
We reached Jomsom at 5. 30 pm and as our conductor informed that the next day is strike in Nepal, so we decided to reach Muktinath on the same day. So we 6 people from the bus hired a jeep for 1200 NPR per head for to and fro for Muktinath. The road from Jomsom to Muktinath was surprisingly very good and the driver informed us that China is funding the project. We reached at 7 pm. Checked in the hotel.
Hotel rent-700 NPR, Food (dinner 600 NPR, breakfast 350 NPR). The food was home made dal Bhat, roti sabji.
The temperature was 4-5 degree and we were very tired so after having dinner (yummy dahl bhat) we slept early as the next day we wanted to visit Muktinath as early as possible.
As discussed with the new friends group, we got ready by 6 am and reached Muktinath by 6.45 am. Before proceeding to Muktinath, I witnessed the sunrise from the Dhaulagiri and Nilgiri range.
At Muktinath, there are 108 dhara and two kunds. The water temperature was freezing cold but we did not see any less enthusiasm for any of the visitors for that reason. Everyone was chanting “Har Har Mahadev” or “Bom Bhole” and taking bath before going for puja. I have also done the same and did the Muktinath darshan. After taking bath, I was not not even able to feel my hands and legs!! However the atmosphere was so devine and seeing the energy level of other devotees, you will also feel awesome.
Above temple there is a monastery which was less crowded than temple and the view from Dhaulagiri was clear.
After enjoying the breath-taking view, we proceed to return to hotel.
While coming back we saw people are selling saligram shila (stone) which is considered as holy stone equally sacred as lord Mahadev. At the bay of kali Gandki these Saligram Shilas are available. Lot of people (Indian) buy these stones and were collecting the holy water from 108 dhara as a memory of Nepal Muktinath Yatra.
That’s how my wish to Nepal Muktinath Yatra got fulfilled. Have you visited Muktinath? Share your experience by commenting below.
